I have had two Christmases in Gothenburg so far and it's definitely one of the highlights of the winter calendar. The darkness and the cold, which is so often cursed, combines beautifully with the festivities to create the Christmas vibe.
My Swedish Christmas begins at midday on Julafton, December 24. We kick off the day with a Christmas fika; lussekatt (saffron rolls), peppakakor (ginger biscuits), glögg (mulled wine) and Julmust (Christmas coke), followed by coffee of the Irish variety.
At precisely 3.00, the fika comes to a halt and the TV is switched on. Donald Duck time! Or Kalle Anka as the Swedes say. This is probably one of the strangest Swedish traditions I've come across. Apparently, Swedes religiously watch the same episode that has been screened for the past 50 or so years. Why? I don't think anyone knows!
It's been dubbed, but if you listen closely, you can still hear the original English audio.
Next on the agenda is the Christmas feast or Julbord, as it's known in Swedish. The standards include Christmas ham, pickled herring, meatballs, soft cheeses, smoked salmon and potato bake with anchovies - a smorgasbord of Christmassy delights. Combine this with the intermittent downing of nubbe (Swedish snaps) with the obligatory drinking songs and you are up for a near two hour session of indulgence. Even non-drinkers stagger from the table.
Santa in Sweden is not a phantom-like visitor that fills up children's stockings while they sleep. No, the bearded man in the red suit delivers presents to children face to face, usually after the Julbord. At this time, the dads of Sweden conveniently step out to go and "buy the newspaper".
Christmas in Sweden is very different to the ones I've had in Australia. It's a great experience and definitely one of the highlights of my time in Sweden.
