For most people autumn’s irrevocable approach means time for cosy evenings curled up on the couch with a hot cocoa. But for some it means stronger winds, bigger swell and faster rides. I’m talking about the Swedish surfers of course.

Surfing is usually a sport you associate with warm sunny days, clear blue water and tanned torsos. So with Sweden’s cool waters and unpredictable summers it might come as a surprise to learn that Sweden has a thriving surf culture.

Since the start of this century the sport has grown remarkably fast. Surfing represents a cool and easy-going lifestyle that many are keen to associate themselves with. The fashion industry knows this and is churning out clothes, sunglasses, shoes and caps thereafter. Combine this with an increasing number of globetrotting youngsters who have caught the bug surfing worn out rental boards in Bali and Costa Rica, and the Swedish surf boom is a fact. (We all know that Swedes are trend slaves, whether they admit it or not.)

On the West Coast, Varberg is perhaps the most popular spot. With its large sandy bays it’s ideal for wind and kite surfers, and not too bad for wave surfers. For any waves to form it needs to be windy, at least 10 meters per second and ideally coming from a south-western or western direction, depending on your exact location. Because the waves lack power you’ll have the most fun if you equip yourself with a fat, wide board that makes paddling into waves a breeze. Apelviken and Lejet are suitable for beginners as these bays have soft sandy bottoms.

In Åsa, just south of Kungsbacka, a quaint boat harbour provides good conditions for wave surfers. The waves break alongside the pier and if you don’t know what you’re doing, take off is dangerously close to the rocks. There’re also two outer breaks that work in strong, consistent winds. The harbour can be a little hard to find, as protective locals go tongue-tied when asked for directions.

On Saturday a group of friends and I piled into the car and headed down there. When we arrived heavy skies hung over a decent crowd of surfers. Every now and then the sun peeked through the clouds and lit the ocean a bright, milky green. We spent a couple of hours in the water, marvelling at a rainbow-clad sky in between catching short, but fun rides. For those who don’t like to get wet in temperatures below 20 degrees, or even 25 for that matter, the harbour borderlines a nature reserve with a beautiful coastal walk.

Whether it is a trend or not, surfing is something special. Sliding along a wall of water, or just attempting to balance on your board in the whitewash, is as exhausting as it is thrilling. Underneath all the commercial hype, surfing is a sport with spirit. It is about being in harmony with nature, and generating a balanced and compassionate mind. I once read that surfing is not just a physical activity but also a meditative, and that pretty much sums it up. So don’t slouch on the couch this autumn, suit up, face the cold, and get out there.

Good to know:
Varberg is situated around an hour’s drive from Gothenburg. In Apelviken there is a well-equipped surf store where you can rent boards and wetsuits. It is open Saturdays and Sundays, 10-18. In summer a 3’2 wetsuit will do just fine, as it gets colder you’ll need a thicker suit as well as a hoodie, boots and gloves.